Hazelnut Pesto
Every year my husband and I battle over the basil from the yard to make our version of pesto. This obsession started around the beginning of our relationship and ever since we have tended some version of a garden. During the year we met, I dug up half of the back yard for vegetables and this was my most successful garden, it was out of control really. After that, we moved into a carriage house on a property where the whole yard was edible! For example, we had ducks from which we got our eggs. I also recall berry bushes along the fence, tomatoes, peas and beets. In addition, we had many different types of greens, and sunflowers, it truly was a a wonderland. Now, however, we live in the desert and grow (rather attempt to grow) everything in pots. But, no matter the location, we always have basil.
Did I mention my husband is a chef as well? Ah, yes. Imagine this: two chefs, one kitchen.
In addition, we both love food, cooking for one another and eating together. Because of this, we spend hours collaborating on meals and dishes, dreaming up recipes, and talking about what our restaurant would be like, should we ever be crazy enough to venture into something like that. However, we do have different styles. And every once in a while, when it comes to things like pesto, the only common ground is the basil.
In the past, we have made pesto with many different types of basil, we've added arugula, parsley or mint for variety. The nuts are always different, traditionally the pine nut, but my husband likes it made with cashews. I have also made versions with avocado, to cut the piney flavor of late summer basil. And the cheese can change too, Parmesan is not always triumphant, Pecorino is another option. But, between you and me, we love Piave Vecchio and its delightful dry nuttiness. Moreover, should we use lemon or lime? This is not often a question, but it could be if there was cilantro in the mix. Or, perhaps even some pepitas? On the other hand, are we even making pesto anymore?
The best pesto I've ever had, left me reeling. It was completely different than any pesto I'd ever had: broken, is the best way to describe it.
Because it wasn't pasty and smooth but rather a beautiful amalgamation of roughly chopped nuts, basil that was picked at its summer peak, and olive oil, draped over it all. And it was served over burrata, no less, and a slice of chewy bread, which felt wonderfully rustic and secretly decadent all at once. I decided then that I needed to attempt to replicate, if not out-do this pesto, no matter the cost! In the end, I am not sure how many different recipes I tried before I arrived at this one. I do know, however, that it just came to me one night, with hardly any effort. This can happen sometimes, in fact, some of my best recipes happen this way. I'll be in the kitchen, and a feeling will take hold, like an itch I have to scratch and I'll just know what I need to make. And so I begin, fulfilling this desire from within; hazelnuts and pecorino, easy on the basil, obviously garlic and lemon, and then, just make sure it doesn't emulsify. Call it luck if you like, but I like to think intuition had a play in all of it.
Hazelnut Pesto
Ingredients
- 1 c hazelnuts
- 1 c basil leaves, lightly packed
- 1 c olive oil
- 1 medium clove garlic
- 1 tbsp lemon juice
- 1 1/4 c shaved pecorino
- 1 tsp kosher salt
- 1/2 tsp freshly cracked black pepper
Instructions
- Preheat oven to 350 F and line a small sheet tray with parchment paper for toasting hazelnuts.
- Prep the remainder of your ingredients: pick basil, shave pecorino, squeeze lemons.
- Toast hazelnuts for 10 minutes, check and rotate. Add 5 minutes to your timer. It is up to you to decide when they are toasted. You should pull them when they just start smelling like toasted nuts and are light brown all over.
- From the oven, transfer your nuts to a colander over the sink while they are still warm. Using a kitchen towel, rub and agitate the hazelnuts until they begin to loose their skins. It is unlikely that you will get all of them off. But because they are bitter, you want most of them gone.
- Next, place garlic clove and hazelnuts in a food processor and pulse until the nuts are chopped and mostly the same size.
- Add salt and pepper and basil, pulse to chop.
- Pour in half of the olive oil and all of the lemon juice, pulse a few times to emulsify.
- Transfer pesto to a medium bowl and add pecorino and the remaining olive oil. Fold ingredients together until just combined.
- Use immediately or store in an air tight container for up to a week.
- Tip: If you transfer pesto while warm to a sanitized jar and refrigerate immediately, you may be able to get the jar to seal without cooking the pesto. Going into the winter months it is nice to have a touch of summer on hand.